In Sofia, Bulgaria

My flight from DC to Paris went smoothly. Then I had a 5 hour layover in the worst aiport in the world, Charles De Gaull. They don't let you check in until 15 minutes before the flight leaves, there's nothing to do in the waiting area (besides the occasional beauty shop), and there are very few seats. My flight from DC was early and the fight to Sofia was late. I only slept 6 minutes all night.

I met Sherkhan in the airport, no problem. We took a bus to the hostel (Sherkhan arrived in Sofia 12 hours before me). When we got to the hostel, I decided not to sleep just yet. We walked around the city.

Sofia is a nice city. We ate McDonald's and walked around. We passed by a Gypsy street that reminded me of China because of the little stands selling goods surrounding both sides. Then we came to the mosque in the center of town.

A man started talking to us at the fountain behind the mosque. He was a driver and spoke a few languages. In broken English, he told us that he was upset that his grandchild in America (Pittsburgh) considered themselves as much American as they do Bulgarian. Then he showed us his left hand, which only had a finger and a thumb, and he showed us his badly wounded right leg. He explained that he was in a Bulgarian military force in Cambodia in 1970 when it happened. Then we shook right hands and left hands and he said, "See, still works." Then, "Bye bye Americans."

Sherkhan and I prayed in the mosque when a guy came over to us. He wanted Sherkhan to cover up his legs. After we prayed, he showed us his praying technique. Sherkhan had a long conversation with him in French. He hesitantly told the man that I am Jewish. I caught the French word for "Jewish" and saw the man's surprised reaction. But he looked like a good person, and I told Sherkhan (who since said I wasn't Jewish) to confirm that I was.

Evening prayers interrupted the conversation and we prayed together. Then the man (who works in the Syrian ambassador's office to Bulgaria) walked us to the train station, where we bought our ticket to Bucharest, Romainia for tonight. The man had short gray hair with a thick gray mustache. He was my height and said he was 58 years old with 5 kids and numerous grandchildren. Sherkhan explain that I completed the entire fast for Ramadan a few years ago and again, the man was suprised. He was convinced that I was Muslim. I've already done 2 of the 5 pillars of Islam, he said, that's more than most Mulsims.

I think he couldn't accept the fact that I am Jewish and yet fulfilling these tenets. Maybe it didn't sit with his perception of Jews, but I hope that slowly changes. The bottom line is that he's a very nice guy. We're going to see him an hour before we leave for Bucharest today. Luckily, this hostel has free internet, but who knows in the future. Until then...