The Scene

Not a whole lot has happened since I last posted. I'm just counting down the hours until I leave for Hubli and then (hopefully) to Hampi (possibly via Hospet), which is now located in what used to be the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire 1330's-1565. I studied that for a semester in grad school, so it should be fun to actually go. This will probably be my most daring trip of my stay in India.

I ate some Mangalorean crab curry yesterday. Holly shit was that good. It was tough to eat one-handed (the left hand is considered dirty here and it isn't just a traditional thing that nobody follows), but it was so good. The menu said it was 90 rupees and the bill said 160. I believe I got the 160 rupee portion and didn't make a fuss this time because the waiter was a nice old man. A lot of times I just go with my feeling about people and the guys from the hooker-type bar felt like crooks, while this guy seemed like a good soul.

It is so hot here. But those words are meaningless. When I'm out for 15 minutes I think, 'Oh, that's not so bad,' but I can't just walk around. I always try to plan where I'm going before I go outside. It's so hot and that becomes the new reality. I had to put the A/C in my room up to 80 degrees and I was still freezing! And I'm a person who likes the cold!

At night, as the vendors that line the sidewalks close up shop, people flock in to sleep on the street. Some have cusions, some cardboad, some nothing. I don't think these people want pity. I'm not even sure that they're unhappy. It's just life. It would be nice if they could have more, but there's no guarantee that that would make them happier. Who knows really, but happiness is more important than materials- even if it might be something I consider a necessity- and the two are not necessarily linked.

People here are generally very nice to me. Often it's because they want money from me (almost always for providing me a service, and usually it's a service that I don't need or even want). Some people just are friendly, but it's hard to determine. This is a society where people help you with every little thing and you tip them for it and that's how they make a living. But it goes against our American individualism, whether we realize it or not. I don't consider myself much of an individualist, but I don't need someone to carry my bag up 4 steps, especially if it means I have to pay them.

I believe my trip has peeked in this last day. Things have been really good, particularly relative to Friday night and early Saturday. I can't possibly have a swing that favorable unless my current condition worsens (I didn't want to scare anyone, but Friday night was worse than I let on, and I think I made it seem pretty bad). I doubt I'll be in a hotel that nice the rest of the way. It had digital cable. I almost had ESPN! I did have HBO!

I've watched a good bit of Indian tv. The violence in Karachi could be trouble. Some have called it the single greatest threat to Musharraf since he took over in 1999 (and he's escaped at least two assassination attempts!). If he is overthrown and some radical anti-Indian, anti-West guys take over, I will already be home, so don't worry ma. If he is overthrown, I don't think fanatics will take over and Musharraf did seem flustered a couple of days ago, but I don't think he'll be overthrown in the near future either.

Hope everyone is well.